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^73 



THE 



BOSTON COMMITTEE 



IN CANADA. 



A SERIES OF EIGHT LETTERS REPRINTED FROM 



THE BOSTON ATLAS. 



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GL^ 




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«b BOSTON: 
18 51. 

EASTBURN'S PRESS, 



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NOTE. 

The Letters here republished, were hastily jotted down from memory, 
Qpon the return of the writer from Canada. 

The interest evinced by the public in the novel mission of the Committee, 
and a general desire of all to know something of the objects and results of 
this visit, seemed to the writer a sufficient reason for the composition of the 
few papers which have recently appeared in the columns of the Boston Atlas. 

Of course, they comprise the impressions of but one member of the Com- 
mittee, and for the opinions and views here given, he alone is responsible. 

D. N. H. 
Boston, Septembe«<1851. 









LETTERS 



LETTER, No. L 
To THE Editors of the Atlas. 

Gentlemen : — The interest evinced by the citizens of Bos- 
ton, in the recent official visit of a Committee of the City 
Council to the cities of the Canadas, and the important re- 
sults which it is hoped will follow from their mission, not 
only to the trade of our merchants, the freight upon the 
northern lines of railway, which centre in Boston — but also 
the cultivation of the social ties, and those innumerable influ- 
ences which spring from friendly intercourse with persons 
who reside under different institutions — alike induce me to 
give through your columns, such facts connected with their 
tour and reception, as may be of public interest. 

The telegraph has announced the prominent facts connect- 
ed with their reception, but there are many interesting cir- 
cumstances connected therewith, which are thought to be 
worthy to be mentioned in detail. There are many things- 
however, which a proper regard for the laws of hospitality 
and propriety requires should not be made public, but which 
if comminiicated, would tend in the highest degree to cement 
those bonds of amity and kindness which at present seem to 
exist between the merchants and public men of the United 
States and the Canadas. The cordiality and heartiness of 
the reception of the Boston delegation, and the princely hos- 
pitality which was bestowed upon them, are an earnest, it is; 
hoped, of a greater degree of intimacy and mercantile com- 



municat.ion, which will be mutually advantageous to the peo- 
ple of both countries. 

It may be necessary, in this connection, to briefly allude to 
the circumstance under which the celebration was decided 
upon, and the reasons which have induced the City Govern- 
ment to move in this matter. 

It is well known, that within the past twenty years, the 
subject of internal improvement has attracted, to a great ex- 
tent, the attention of our citizens. The short, but very con- 
cise and clear statements, contained in the address to the 
people of Boston by the Mayor, have placed the results of the 
various enterprises prominently before the public. 

The northern lines to Canada are now completed. Before 
the period of the celebration, Boston will be within twelve 
hours travel of Montreal, and during the next winter, the fa- 
cilities for communication will be such, that a revolution in 
the trade between the Atlantic coast and the Canadas, will 
be effected. 

After conference with many of our leading merchants, and 
persons connected with the great lines of travel, the members 
of our City Government thought that the importance of these 
means of communication, to the trade and commerce of Bos- 
ton, was well worthy the attention of its Municipal Officers, 
and that the present period was a most favorable time 
to commemorate the completion and success of those vast 
schemes of internal communication, which our citizens had 
at great sacrifices been able to construct. It was thought 
that the commemorative services should be upon a scale com- 
mensurate with the magnitude of the enterprises they were 
designed to celebrate. 

The officers of the various railway lines in New England,and 
those of our public spirited merchants and capitalists, to whose 
energy and sagacious foresight our city is mainly indebted 
for her high character, both in our own country and abroad, 
gave their warm approval of the measure, and pledged their 
aid and co-operation. The work was intrusted to a commit- 
tee of twenty-three members of the City Government, and 
froni the general committee, various sub-committees were 



chosen. The Committee on Invitation consists of the Mayor, 
the President of the Common Council, two Aldermen, and 
seven members of the Common Council. 

It was deemed advisable that a deputation from the Gener- 
al Committee should personally visit the Canadas, to seek the 
co-operation of the Provincial and Municipal Authorities, and 
by interviews with the principal business firms, and persons 
connected with, or interested in the lines of travel, to secure 
the attendance of those whose visit to Boston would be most 
conducive to give publicity, to the great mass of the people, 
of the completion of the lines of railway, the facilities now 
open for freight and travel, and the peculiar advantages our 
city enjoys as the great outlet, on the Atlantic coast, for the 
immense productions of the West and the Canadas ; and also 
the facilities which are opened for the transit of merchandise 
from foreign ports, destined for Canadian Markets. 

The Presidents of all the Northern lines of railway, from 
Boston, furnished the Committee with free passes over the 
various roads, our merchants and public men gave them let- 
ters of introduction to the Canadian merchants and authori- 
ties, and they left Boston upon their mission, with a deter- 
mination that every proper effort should be made to render 
the Railroad Jubilee of 1851 worthy of the great event to be 
commemorated, and the character of the city whose represen-. 
tatives they were. 

They left Boston on Saturday, August 9th, by way of the 
Boston and Maine Railroad to Lawrence, thence by the Man- 
chester and Lawrence, Concord, Northern, and Vermont Cen- 
tral Railroads to Northfield, Vermont. At Northfield they had 
an interview with the Hon. Charles Paine, and his associates 
in the direction of the Vermont Central, and Vermont and 
Canada Roads. They obtained a great deal of valuable in- 
formation from their intercourse with Ex-Governor Paine, 
and other gentlemen connected with the lines to Canada. 

At Northfield they were most hospitably entertained. The 
public house at this place, erected to accommodate travellers 
who patronize the Vermont Central Railroad, is a model hotel. 
The scenery in its vicinity is very fine indeed, and strangers 



can obtain excellent views of the Green Mountains from this 
point. 

The route of the Committee through our own State and 
its neighbor, New Hampshire, was through a region which 
indicated in every direction the great influence which rail- 
ways have exerted, in developing the resources and applying 
to practical use the water privileges of New England. The 
valley of the Merrimac, with its fine water-falls, its rich and 
extensive tracts of interval land, ornamented with the majes- 
tic and beautiful elms which abound throughout its vallies, 
the flourishing towns along its banks, which have been 
established by the enterprise of our citizens, are objects of 
interest to all travellers, to whom 

" Custom cannot stale their infinite variety.'' 

The farm of Mr. Webster, in Franklin, is one of the most 
beautiful objects along this route. His neat country residence 
with its ample fields, its fine lawns, and the high state of 
culture which his lands present, appears in marked contrast 
with the surrounding country. 

The entire line of roads over which the delegation travel- 
led, appears to be well built ; there is no visible evidence that 
the work has been slighted, or that the price of the stock has 
affected the thorough character of the road bed, and all the 
fixtures or furniture of the lines. Every indication evinced 
that the stockholders were the only parties who had cause 
for complaint respecting the pecuniary difficulties under which 
the work had been executed. 

At JXorthfield, a portion of the Committee passed over to 
Burlington to confer with the President and Officers of the 
Burlington and Rutland Railroad, to make such arrangements 
with them respecting the passage over their road, of such of 
our Canadian friends as might wish to travel by that route, 
as it was the design and purpose of the delegation, and of our 
city authorities, to make the celebration one of a general 
character; so that all the rival lines should be treated in the 
same manner. The celebration is to be of a popular charac- 



ter, and no apprehension need be felt that any particular in- 
terest, or line, will be unduly prominent therein. 

Having thus stated as clearly as is in my power, the ob- 
jects and design of the celebration, and the early proceedings 
of the Committee having the subject in their hands, it is pro- 
posed, in the succeeding numbers, to give a detailed account 
of the movements of the delegation to Canada, and the im- 
pressions of one of the number, which have been obtained 
while engaged upon the mission. 



LETTER, No. II. 

It is proposed in this, and the succeeding articles of the 
series, to state the facts connected with the tour of the Bos- 
ton Delegation to the Canadas, in chronological order. 

The Committee left Northfield at 5 o'clock, A. M., on 
Monday, August 11th, and arrived at West Alburgh, a dis- 
tance of 90 miles, in three and a half hours running time, or 
four hours, including stops. They crossed Lake Champlain 
in the steamer Ethan Allen, and found that arrangements had 
been made for their accommodation by the agents and offi- 
cers of the Ogdensburg Railroad. A large and convenient 
hotel has been finished over the extensive station house of the 
Ogdenshurgh Road, at Rouse's Point. This Road is known in 
the region through which it passes as the " Northern Road." 

In crossing Lake Champlain, the steamer's course was 
parallel with the extensive structure which was authorized 
by the last session of the New York Legislature, by means 
of which the trains will pass across an opening between two 
piers, upon a long floating barge, propelled by steam, and 
which will be arranged to float into square sections at each 
end of the piers. This work is nearly completed. From 
the appearance of the premises, it would appear that but a 



8 

short time will be required to enable a train to cross this 
open space. The roads which terminate at this point have 
had a large territory secured for their accommodation. 

The cars of the Ogdensburg Road were here taken. The 
train consisted of five well-filled passenger cars. Each car 
was furnished with a large earthenware, vase, which was 
supplied with ice water. The vase was of a handsome 
shape, so that it was quite ornamental, and the very frequent 
visits made to it by the passengers, attested that it was a 
very good arrangement for the comfort of the patrons of the 
road. 

This road appears to be well built, and the smoothness 
Avith which the train passed at a high rate of speed over the 
rails, was the subject of general remark. 'The line of the 
road is through a level region. The land does not appear to 
be in a very high state of cultivation, though at some points 
of the line, the fields indicate that the soil is capable of pro- 
ducing heavy crops. When settled upon and improved, the 
country through which the Ogdensburg road passes will 
doubtless be one of the finest agricultural regions in the 
northern part of the United States. 

New buildings appear to be springing up along the entire 
line, and at each stopping place there was unmistakable evi- 
dence that the increased facilities for business which the road 
now furnishes, were having a most beneficial effect upon the 
trade of the small towns through which it passes. 

At the town of Malone, which is about sixty miles from 
Rouse's Point, the Committee met T. P. Chandler, Esq., 
President of the Ogdensburg Road, Col. C. L. Schlatter, the 
superintendent, Mr. Hoyle and Mr. Horton, two of the 
directors. The three gentlemen last named, accompanied the 
delegation over the road, and Col. Schlatter kindly offered to 
go to Toronto with them. The offer was accepted, and as 
this gentleman was well known throughout the route, his 
assistance was of great service. The officers of the railroad, 
and all persons interested in the various lines of communica- 
tion connected therewith, expressed deep interest in the ob- 



jects of the Committee, and offered their services to aid in 
the success of the movement. 

The train reached Ogdensburg in five and a half hours 
from Rouse's Point. This place is 400 miles distant from 
Boston. The average speed at which the entire journey had 
been accomplished was 22 miles an hour, including stops. 

The land owned by the railway company at Ogdensburg, 
is very extensive. The buildings are very large, and make a 
fine show from the water. From a short examination made, 
it would appear that the most extensive arrangements had 
been made for the accommodation of all kinds of freight, and 
for the safety and convenience of vessels engaged in trans- 
portation. 

The deputation took passage at Ogdensburg in the steamer 
Niagara, for Lewiston. As the boat passed out into the mid- 
dle of the river St. Lawrence, her passengers had a fine view 
of the town of Ogdensburg. This place is situated upon 
ground somewhat elevated above the river, and makes a fine 
appearance. The St. Lawrence is about a mile and a quarter 
wide at this point. Upon the Canada side, the town of 
Prescott is opposite Ogdensburg, and a steam ferry boat 
crosses every half hour. Prescott is upon a beautiful rising 
ground. The most striking object it presents from the river 
is the ruins of about a dozen buildings, which w^ere burned 
by persons from the American side, during the border diffi- 
culties some years ago. The walls of these edifices are built 
of stone, and they now have a desolate appearance. The 
English arms, with the cabalistic letters, V. R., over the sign 
of the Customs Warehouse, were the first indications noticed 
that our party had reached the British Provinces. 

A sail upon the St. Lawrence, on board of a spacious and 
comfortable steamer, is the very acme of the pleasure of trav- 
elling. The powerful engines of the Niagara forced her 
through the opposing current at a very rapid rate. Since the 
completion of the various lines of railway over which the 
Committee had travelled, a line of steamers has been placed 
upon the route, through the lake, to connect with the trains, 
and as they do not stop at but few places on the river the 



10 

distance can now be travelled in much less time than for^^ 
merly. These steamers are called the Express Line. 

The towns upon the American shore present a more enter- 
prising appearance, than those upon the Canadian bank of 
the river. Many persons who have not visited the region, 
seem to think that the contrast between the two countries, 
along the St. Lawrence, is as marked and distinct, as the 
lithographic representations of temperance and intemperance. 
But the difference noticeable along the borders of the United 
States and Canada is not so discernible as the line of Free- 
dom and Slavery upon the banks of the Ohio river. 

Upon the New York shore, the villages did not seem to be 
at so regular distances from each other, as they are upon the 
opposite side, where, at about every nine miles, a spire, cov- 
ered with tin and glistening in the sun, 

" Points its taper finger to the sky." 

The boat passed among the famous " Thousand Islands" 
during the afternoon, and for hours, her route was through 
scenery of the most picturesque and interesting character. 
She touched at Kingston, to land and receive passengers, and 
as we passed out of that harbor, which is formed by a bay, 
the clear tones of a bugle in the barracks, sounded the call to 
quarters to the cavalry there stationed. The boat proceeded 
on her course, and between the hours of nine and ten we 
were sailing upon the waters of Lake Ontario. The moon 
was near the full, the night was clear and bright, and it was 
with some reluctance that the party, about midnight, retired 
to their state rooms. During the four hours of the passage, 
after the lanterns were hoisted to the top of the mast, but 
two vessels were seen ; one was overtaken, and the other was 
passed. Both were propellers, constructed to pass through 
the locks. The surface of the lake was undisturbed by 
either wind or waves, and the passage across the lake was 
one of the most agreeable character. 

At the dawn of day, the fort at Niagara was in sight, and 
we had a fine sail up the Niagara river to Lewiston. The 
new wire suspension bridge, erected across the river at Lew- 



11 

iston this season, makes a beautiful appearance. This bridge 
is wider than the one first thrown across the river, some 
miles nearer the Falls, and is the largest structure of the kind 
in the Avorld. It was said that the cost was much less than 
the upper one ; so that it would pay good dividends to the 
owners. It was built to accommodate the local travel be- 
tween Lewiston and Q,ueenstown. 

At Lewiston the Delegation took the English steamer 
" City of Toronto," Capt. Dick. This boat was found to be 
one of the neatest and most comfortable of steamers, and its 
owner and commander as fine a specimen of the true gentle- 
man as was met during the journey. Fortunately, Capt. 
Cotten, an aid-de-camp to the Governor General, was on 
board ; the Committee were introduced to him, and arrange- 
ments made to further the objects of their mission. In cross- 
ing the lake, but three vessels were seen. 

After a sail of about three hours, the city of Toronto was 
in sight, and its public buildings were easily distinguished. 
The Provincial Asylum for the Insane, the Parliament 
Houses, the Barracks, and numerous church edifices, make 
an imposing appearance from the harbor. 

At Lewiston, a portion of the Committee took passage in a 
steamer for Hamilton, a city situated about 40 miles west 
from Toronto. This city is rapidly increasing in commerce 
and wealth. An important railroad across the country will 
terminate at Hamilton, and it is now confidently predicted 
that the place is destined to be one of the largest cities on 
the shores of the lakes. It is now popularly called the 
'' dueen of the West," 

The next article will be devoted to the city of Toronto. 



12 



LETTER, No. III. 

The delegation were received at the landing in Toronto, 
by the Mayor and members of the Corporation, and by sever- 
al of the Governor General's Cabinet Ministers. The news 
of the intended visit of the Committee had preceded their ar- 
rival, and the authorities had made arrangements to receive 
and welcome them. After a formal introduction, the Toron- 
to authorities accompanied the deputation to their hotel. 
Mr. Beard, the proprietor of the public house, is a member of 
the City Government, and his attentions to the Committee 
were numerous, and of great value to them. 

In a short time after the arrival of the delegation, the Gov- 
ernor General, through the interposition of his Aid-de-Camp, 
assigned an early hour for an interview at the Government 
House. At the time appointed, the Committee waited upon 
Lord Elgin, and were received with a cordiality which Avas 
quite gratifying to them. The letters of invitation and in- 
troduction were delivered, and the objects of the mission 
were stated. The interview was of the most picasnrable 
character. An invitation to dine the next day at the Gover- 
nor's residence, was extended to the Committee, and accepted 
by them. 

The personal appearance of Lord Elgin very much resem- 
bles that of Hon. John Quincy Adams. From the represen- 
tations of his personal friends and political opponents, he is 
not only similar to the sage of duincy, in his physical organ- 
ization, but in those noble qualities of moral excellence which 
elevate and adorn men of exalted station. 

Upon the afternoon of the arrival of the Committee, the 
band attached to the regiment stationed at Toronto, played 
for the amusement of the public in the grounds of the Gov- 
ernment House, which were thrown open for visitors. There 
was a large collection of the populace, and the most perfect 
order and decorum were preserved, although there were no 
guards or police upon the premises. A printed progranmie 



13 

informed the multitude respecting the pieces to be performed. 
The band " discoursed most eloquent music," and the inter- 
vals between the pieces were improved by a. band of bagpi- 
pers, also connected with the regiment.* The dress of these 
highland musicians gave rather more pleasure to some of the 
party than their music ; for if one bagpipe is sufficient to 

" Crack the voice of Melody, 
And break the legs of Time." 

what can be expected from an increase in the number of in- 
struments ? The bagpipers were clad in the full dress of 
their nation. The plaid hose, bare knees, Scotch caps, and 
noble plumes, which mark their peculiar costume, made them 
objects of interest. 

During the performance of the band, the piazza of the 
Government House was filled with distinguished personages. 
The Committee were there introduced to the members of the 
Cabinet, the staff, the officers of the army, and many mem- 
bers of Parliament. 

The Hon. Sir Hew Dalrymple, commander of the 71st 
regiment of Highlanders, stationed at this place, politely of- 
fered to arrange a dress parade of his regiment, the next 
morning, for the special benefit of the delegation. The in- 
vitation was accepted, and the city officers volunteered to 
conduct their guests to the barracks and parade ground. 

The Mayor and Corporation accepted the invitation of the 
Committee to visit Boston at the Railroad Jubilee, and the 
principal mercantile houses to whom letters of introduction 
had been sent were very much interested in the proposed 
festivities. Through the agency of the merchaiUs, bankers, 
and public officers, the names of the most prominent mer- 
chants in Canada West were obtained, and invitations were 
forwarded to their address. 

The Parliament Houses were visited in the evening, when 
both branches were in session. The apartments in which 
the two bodies convene, are in one building. The Eastern 
end is occupied by the Lower House, or " Legislative Assem- 
bly," as it is called. In the opposite end of the House the 



14 

Upper Branch, or " Legislative Council " is held. The build- 
ing is of brick, without much architectural beauty ; the wings 
which are devoted to Parliament, are conveniently arranged. 
The halls are about 40 feet in the clear, and are upon the 
first story. 

The Library of the Houses of Parliament, is in the second 
story of the centre of the building. At the destruction of the 
Parliament Houses in Montreal, a valuable library was con- 
sumed. The Legislature is making every effort to restore 
the loss, and have voted, within the present year, ^24,000 
for that purpose ; besides Avhich, they have received many 
valuable donations of books ; among others there is a com- 
plete set of the Journal of the House of Lords, from 1509 to 
1849 inclusive. Congress has also contributed liberally, and 
several States of the Union have forwarded sets of their pub- 
lic documents. 

The room first visited was the " Legislative Council." 
The members of this body are appointed by the Governor 
General. He also appoints the presiding officer in both 
Houses of Parliament. The Council consists of thirty-eight 
members at the present time ; a majority of those present ap- 
peared to be upwards of fifty years of age. An animated dis- 
cussion was going on, upon the question of the passage of a 
bill which allowed foreigners to become directors of railway 
companies. 

The Hon. Rene E. Caron, the Speaker of the Council, took 
the floor and made an eloquent speech against the meas- 
ure. He was dressed in a very full robe of black silk, and 
with his linen bands and intelligent coiuitenance, would pass 
in Boston for an Episcopal Bishop, dressed in full canonical 
robes. The Speakers and Clerks of both Houses of Parlia- 
ment were attired in similar style. When the Speaker took 
the floor to address the Council, he did not call any one to 
the chair. Three loud knocks upon the door arrested the at- 
tention of the Messenger. The Speaker resumed his seat in 
the chair, and placed a cap upon his head. A message was 
announced from the Assembly. The order was given to ad- 
mit the messenger, when the Speaker marched forward to the 



15 

bar, and the visitor informed him that he was charged with a 
bill passed by the Assembly, which was duly engrossed in 
English and French, and sent to the Council for their approv- 
al. During an hour, five similar occurrences took place, 
though ditierent members brought in bills. It is customary 
for the Speaker to appoint, as messenger to the other branch, 
the member who introduced the measure or bill. 

The apartment occupied by the Lower House has admir- 
able accommodations for visitors. The number of members 
is 84, who are equally divided between Canada East and 
Canada West. The arrangement of the seats is similar to 
that of the House of Commons in the Imperial Parliament. 
Upon the right of the Speaker, the members of the Cabinet 
occupy the ministerial benches, while their political opponents 
are seated directly opposite. After having seen one sitting 
of this body, the frequent allusions in English journals to 
" cheers from the ministerial benches," and cries of '• hear, 
hear, from the opposition," could be understood. The 75 
members present were not more orderly than the 380 Repre- 
sentatives in our State Legislature. In fact the noise and 
confusion was at times greater than the writer has ever wit- 
nessed in our State House. The members interrupt and an- 
noy the person addressing the House, to a degree which 
would not be tolerated in any caucus or public mass meeting 
in New England. 

The discussion, upon the occasion of the visit to the As- 
sembly, was upon the expediency of asking for a loan from 
the Imperial Parliament, to construct a continuous railway 
from Toronto to Halifax. The whole subject of railways, 
with their effects upon business, their advantages over canals, 
and all the matters incident to their establishment, were dis- 
cussed. The speakers in both Houses made frequent allusions 
to the United States, and the experience of our own State 
and of New England was adduced, in order to advance various 
conflicting theories. 

The speakers were none of them so fluent as the orators 
who address our legislatures usually arc. There was more di- 



16 

rectness, however, and a closer adherence to the leading 
points involved in the discussion. 

The most effective speech made during the evening, was 
by Hon. Francis Hincks, the leading member of Lord Elgin's 
Ministry, and author of many valuable works on Canada. 
From the tone and manner of this speech, and from the in- 
terest evinced by members of all parties during its delivery, 
the inference would be drawn that Mr. Hincks was the lead- 
er of the Ministerial forces in the Assembly. 

The present Ministry have a very large majority in the 
Assembly. The Cabinet are always members of the lower 
house, and the system of election, by which residence within 
the district is not a qualification for the members of Parlia- 
ment, enables a person to be a candidate in several districts, 
and in case he is elected in two or three of them, he can select 
which constituency he will represent. 

The entrance to the seats of the members is directly in 
front of the Speaker's chair, and each time a member enters 
or retires, he turns and bows to the Speaker, who returns the 
civility. 

Each hall is ornamented with an immense full length por- 
trait of the Q,ueen. The one in the Assembly was saved 
from the flames at Montreal, at the time of the destruction of 
the Parliament Houses, by a mob, a few years since. The 
picture shows marks of the heat to which it was then exposed. 

Many of the members of Parliament have genuine French 
features, and the speech of quite a number indicates that they 
are of French descent. The presiding officers of both houses 
are of the class popularly known as French Canadians. 
About a dozen of the members who avow political sentiments 
which in the United States would be termed Radical, are 
known in Canada by the very suggestive name of the " Clear 
Grits." 

During the sessions, some of the members sit with their 
hats on, while others appear desirous to show the soles of 
their boots to their associates. The business of the session 
is usually transacted in the evening and night. The evening 



17 

previous to our visit to the houses, the lower branch adjourn- 
ed at 2 o'clock in the morning, after a session of eleven hours. 
About 11 o'clock seemed to be regarded as the proper time 
to adjourn. 

The offices of the various departments of the Provincial 
Government are in the immediate vicinity of the Parliament 
houses. The proceedings in the Legislative Council and As- 
sembly, seemed to attract public attention in the same degree 
as the action of Congress excites the public mind during its 
sessions at Washington. 



LETTER, No. IV. 

Toronto is comparatively a new city. In 1830 its popula- 
tion was 2860. In 1849 it was 23,505, and it is estimated 
that before the close of next year it will contain upwards of 
30,000 people. The general appearance of the city very 
much resembles that of the flourishing cities in Western 
New York and Pennsylvania. The streets are wide, and are 
laid out with a view to the future growth of the place. 
They have plank side walks. The business streets are 
paved with wood, or covered with planks. The roads which 
lead from the city are macadamized, and are kept in admira- 
ble order. 

The city has a supply, of water, under the control of the 
Corporation. It is well furnished with drains and sewers, 
it has a fine market building, and those to whom its muni- 
cipal affairs have been entrusted, appear to have exercised 
the responsible duties of their station upon a liberal scale, 
which reflects the highest credit upon their enlarged views 
and comprehensive policy, 



18 

The Mayor of the city is the senior partner in one of the 
most extensive mercantile houses, and a number of the mem- 
bers of the Corporation are connected with houses of estab- 
lished reputation. The Mayor is a Member of Parliament, 
duite a number of the citizens of Toronto represent distant 
constituencies in the Legislative Assembly. 

Eighty-four per cent, of the population of Canada West is 
of the Protestant faith, divided among the various leading 
sects in about the following proportions : — 22 per cent, of 
the whole population are Episcopalians, 20 per cent, are 
Presbyterians, 18 per cent, belong to the Wesleyan, Episco- 
pal and other Methodist churches, 4 per cent, are Baptists, 
16 per cent, are connected with the Romish church, and the 
remaining 20 per cent, are divided among the Lutherans and 
all other small Protestant sects. The character and nation- 
ality of the population, the popular institutions, the degree of 
social and political freedom, and the elements of progress can 
easily be inferred, from the above statement, of the religious 
faith professed by the inhabitants. 

After devoting the morning to business connected with 
their mission in Canada West, the Delegation met the city 
authorities by appointment, and proceeded in carriages to the 
parade ground and barracks, which are situated about two 
miles West from the business portion of the city. A few 
block houses, built years ago, and surrounded with palisades, 
are within the barracks. 

The 71st Regiment Light Lifantry, Highlanders, under 
command of Col. Dalrymple, were formed in a line inside of 
the barrack enclosure. They marched to the parade ground, 
about half a mile from their quarters, and were placed in line, 
ready to receive the Governor General. As the clock in a 
neighboring tower struck the hour appointed for the review, 
a trumpet announced the arrival of the*Commander-in-Chief 
Avith his staff. Lord Elgin and suite were received with the 
customary honors. The regiment was about 800 strong. 
After the review many battalion manoeuvres were performed 
with great exactness. The ceremonies closed with a drill of 
the regiment as skirmishers, in which all the movements of 



19 

light troops ill presence of an enemy, formation of squares to 
resist cavalry, firings, and similar movements, were exhibited 
with great accuracy and fine effect. 

The Provincial Institution for the Insane, was next visited. 
The building occupied for this purpose, is finely located, and 
has very large grounds connected with it. It is about the 
size of the Massachusetts General Hospital, in Boston. It is 
a noble monument of the philanthropy of the Province. In 
its internal arrangements, it is the pattern of neatness and 
good order. The structure contains all the most approved 
modern arrangements for heating and ventilation. Both male 
and female wings have ample accommodations in each, story 
to enable the inmates to be in the open air. It would be 
very difficult indeed to suggest any improvement in the 
building or its internal arrangements. The Superintendent 
stated that the Directors had visited most of the insane insti- 
tutions in the United States, and had copied the best.plans 
and arrangements in each. The number of patients was 
about 220. The same preponderance of female patients over 
the number of males, which now prevails in the institutions 
in the States, also exists in Canada. 

There is but one colored patient in this Asylum. He was 
reported by the officers to be a slave, who escaped from Hon. 
Henry Clay some years ago. The fact of but one negro pa- 
tient in the only public insane institution in Canada West, 
led to an inquiry respecting the number of fugitives in Can- 
ada. It was stated that the number of blacks who had fled 
from slavery, and settled in Canada, was not near so large 
as was generally reported in the United States. The writer 
made inquiries of public officers in the provincial and muni- 
cipal governments, of clergymen of various denominations, 
and of intelligent citizens of difierent parties, and the testi- 
mony of these persons was uniformly the same. The city 
officer^ and lawyers stated, that while many of the fugitives 
were Industrious and frugal, yet, as a class, they were not at 
all a desirable population. One of , the most intelligent gen- 
tlemen stated that, as a class, the blacks of Canada were to 
the population there, much the same as the poor and ignorant 



30 

Irish immigrant was to the Northern cities of the States. 
The reader will please remember that the above is a mere 
recital of facts, and that in these articles it is not thought 
proper to discuss the abstract question, whether or not the 
most desirable population for a country will be those who 
escape from the oppressions of either the old world or the 
new. 

One fact connected with the Insane Asylum in Toronto 
will show the religious toleration which exists in Canada 
•West. There are rooms in the building for religious ser- 
vices in the Episcopal and Roman Catholic forms, and one 
which, is used for other denominations. The Institution has 
a fine ball-room, which is often used by the inmates. 

In returning to the city, the extensive grounds of the 
University were visited. One of the. most pleasing and grati- 
fying circumstances connected wiili the present social condi- 
tion of Canada West, is the deep interest taken by all classes 
of the population in the subject of popular education. The 
last report of the Rev. Dr. Ryerson, chief Superintendent of 
the Schools of the Province, states the number of public 
schools to be 3059; the number of pupils connected there- 
with is 151,891. In Toronto, a fine building, situated in an 
open square of nearly eight acres, will be finished this year, 
for the Provincial Normal School. The building and land 
will cost $60,000. The corner stone was laid the 2d of July 
last, by Lord Elgin, who pronounced an address upon the 
occasion. This address lias been published, and has met 
with an extensive sale. Its author is said to be the most 
finished orator in British North America, and we found his 
late public address had excited great attention. A perusal 
warrants the high praise which is elicited. Dr. Ryerson is 
one of the most celebrated clergymen of the Methodist 
Church. By his zeal and devotion to the cause of popular 
education, he has infused life and energy into the public 
mind to such a degree, that last year the people of Canada 
West voluntarily taxed themselves for the salaries of teachers 
for a larger sum, in proportion to their numbers, and have 



•21 

kept open their schools on an average more months, than the 
neighboring citizens of the great State of New York, 

In the evening, the delegation dined at Elmsley House, the^ 
residence of the Governor General. The party consisted of 
the Boston Committee, the speakers of both branches of the 
Legislature, two members of the Cabinet, their two predeces- 
sors, Sir Hew Dalrymple, an English Baptist Clergyman? 
Lieut. Jones, U. S. Army, Hon. Charles Paine, of Vermont 
Col. Schlatter, of Ogdensburg, the members of the suite 
Lord Elgin and his lady. The conversation was confined to 
the topics naturally suggested by the mission of the Bos- 
tonians, the present happy relations existing between the two 
governments, and the progress made by the people of New 
England, in the arts of peaceful industry. 

Lieut. .Tones served through the Mexican war, and inter- 
ested the military gentlemen present, by his intelligent ob- 
servations respecting his campaigns. We found the officers 
of the English Army, wherever we met with them, quite 
enthusiastic in their expressions of regard to the memory of 
the veteran warrior, who was called to the Presidential 
Chair by the votes of a nation of Freemen, and whose spot- 
less career, both as a soldier and a civilian, has attracted the 
attention, and received the admiration of millions upon each 
side of the Atlantic. 

After retiring from Lord Elgin's, in accordance with ar- 
rangements which had previously been made, the Committee, 
in company with the Cabinet Ministers, attended a brilliant 
levee at the residence of one of the citizens of Toronto. 
A numerous and brilliant company were assembled, and the 
evening was passed in a most pleasurable manner. 

The Committee were gratified that Lord Elgin would 
accept the invitation of the Boston Municipal Authorities, if 
the state of public affairs would allow him to leave the 
province at the period of the commemorative festivities. His 
cabinet ministers, many members of Parliament, officers of 
the army, and official personages, have accepted invitations 
to be present. 



The Committee left Toronto at noon, on Friday, the 
15th August. During the last morning of their stay, they 
were waited upon by a large number of the principal mer- 
chants and bankers of the city. The members of Parliament, 
and of the cabinet, furnished them letters of introduction to 
various parties in Montreal and (Quebec. The officers of the 
army called to pay parting respects to their visitors. The 
mayor and officers of the Corporation also came, and the pro- 
prietor of the hotel paid every attention to the large company 
assembled. 

duite a deputation from the various classes who had called 
upon the Committee, accompanied them io the steamer. 

It may with truth be said, that the people of Canada West 
are desirous of cultivating the acquaintance, and extending 
their business relations with the people of New England. 
The mission of the Committee from Boston occurred at a 
most fortunate period, as the Provincial Parliament were 
engaged in the discussion of the whole subject of railways, 
canals, and public improvements, and public attention was 
engrossed by the debates upon the subject. 

Canada West is destined to be one of the most prosperous 
and wealthy portions of the American continent. Its climate 
and soil are as favorable to agriculture as the best portion of 
New York. In five years out of the last eight the ther- 
mometer has not had so wide a range as it has in Massachu- 
setts. The country at the present time is in advance of 
What Western New York was at the close of the last war 
with England. The people have many sympathies in com- 
mon with their brethren upon the opposite side of the lake 
and river, and it is hoped that the influence which will be 
exerted by the increased facilities for communication, will 
be of a character to be of lasting good to all the parties 
interested therein. 



23 



LETTER, No. V. 



The delegation left Toronto at noon on Friday, the 15th 
of August, in the steamer "Princess Royal," for Kingston. 
The Captain of the boat is brother of Captain Dick, of the 
steamer " City of Toronto," and by his courtesy and atten- 
tions to his passengers, their stay on board his boat, is ren- 
dered both pleasant and interesting. The English boats 
upon the Lake follow the Canada shore, and during the after- 
noon we sailed upwards of a hundred miles along the South- 
ern boundary of Canada West. Throughout this distance, 
the land gave unmistakable evidence of its great fertility, and 
the towns upon the Lake appear to be rapidly improving in 
wealth and population. For ten years, during the past fifteen 
seasons, in the eastern section of Canada West, the wheat 
fly caused great loss to those who cultivated wheat fields. 
This loss was said to be very severely felt, and the whole 
region was retarded in growth and improvement thereby. 
But within the three past years the population of the whole 
Province have been prosperous, and a spirit of enterprise 
has sprung up which now gives promise to infuse life and 
energy into all departments of trade and industry. 

The steamer stopped at Port Hope, a town sixty-five miles 
east from Toronto. This place has the best harbor upon the 
Northern shore of Lake Ontario. The boat landed quite a 
number of passengers at Cobourg, a prosperous town, seventy- 
two miles from Toronto. This place is one which is rapidly 
increasing. ^ It is the district town of the Newcastle District. 
The buildings are upon a beautiful slope of land, and indi- 
cate that the population have wealth and good taste. The 
Wesleyan Methodists have a College located here ; the build- 
ing erected for its use, forms a prominent object in viewing 
the town from the Lake. 

The oflicers of the ,' steamer, and a number of the passen- 
gers were Scotch people. A blind musician was on board, 
and during the evening the main deck was the scene of much 



24 



merriment. Many Scotch reels and other dances were ex- 
ecuted m fine style, and the merriment was kept up with in- 
creasing interest until nearly 11 o'clock. The boat arrived 
at Kingston by daybreak, on Saturday morning, so that our 
party had time to go up into the town, and examine its ap- 
pearance. It has a most splendid market building, which 
excites the attention of visitors. The fortifications are very 
extensive. Kingston is said to be second only to Q,uebec, 
in the strength of its military defence. The streets are wide 
and regular. The spacious dwellings, and solid appearance 
of every thing about the city, reminds one more of Salem, in 
our own State, than of any other city or town. 

Kingston is one hundred and ninety-nine miles west of 
Montreal, but the passage is made to Lachine, within nine 
miles of Montreal, in thirteen hours. In going down the 
river, the steamers pass through the rapids, and the current 
aids their passage materially. A sail through the rapids of 
the St. Lawrence is most exciting. No description will con- 
vey to those who have never made the passage an adequate 
idea of the scene : 

" Nought but itself can be its parallel." 

Our passengers were landed at Lachine about dark, and 
took cars for Montreal. By an accident to the train they did 
not reach Montreal till 9 o'clock. At the station house, the 
delegation found the Mayor and members of the corporation 
were waiting to give them an official reception. After an in- 
troduction the parties took carriages for the Hay's House, 
where rooms had been engaged for them. After a few mo- 
ments the party were taken into the elegant hall of the Hay's 
House, where a splendid entertainment had been prepared. 
The deputation were welcomed by the Mayor, and speeches 
were made by several of the Corporation, to which replies 
were made by members of the Committee. They accepted 
an invitation to attend religious service at the Catholic Cathe- 
dral, on the following day. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral in Montreal is said to be 
the largest church edifice on this continent. It is of Gothic 



25 

architecture, 256 feet in length, by 135 in breadth. Twelve 
thousand persons can comfortably be accommodated within 
its walls. The pompous and imposing services of the Catho- 
lic ritual were performed upon a scale of grandeur and mag- 
nificence in harmony with the size of the edifice, and the 
throng of worshippers who crowded its broad and extensive 
aisles. The music was superb, and the whole services were 
upon a grand scale. The sermon was delivered in French. 
It was of unusual length, so that the services were full three 
hours long. The upper galleries were not full, yet a careful 
estimation of the congregation indicated that between eight 
and nine thousand persons were present. There were about 
one hundred priests and assistants within the altar. 

The writer attended evening service at an Episcopal 
Church, where the soldiers connected with the regiment sta- 
tioned in Montreal, who were of the Church of England, had 
public worship performed for their accommodation. The 
number of soldiers present was nearly seven hundred. They 
made a fine appearance in the church. The pupils of the 
regimental school occupied benches in the main aisle of the 
edifice, and made the responses in a loud and clear manner. 
The regimental band performed the chants, and played each 
time the word "Amen" occurred in the service. The effect 
was striking and dramatic. The soldiers of the army have 
their choice respecting the church they desire to attend. The 
natives of Scotland usually worship at Presbyterian churches. 
The Irish are mostly Catholics. About seventy per cent, of 
the population of Montreal are the descendants of the French, 
and it is. therefore, a Catholic city. 

On Monday, the Committee devoted the morning to the busi- 
ness of their mission. They found the business men of Mon- 
treal quite enthusiastic in relation to the intended celebration. 
The principal bankers, importers and merchants gave the 
Committee a warm and hearty welcome, and assured them of 
their deep interest in all those great schemes of internal im- 
provement, which have been principally constructed by the 
people of New England, to connect the Canadas with Boston. 
Already the trade of Montreal has felt the beneficial results 



of the new and rapid means of commimication, and her mer- 
chants duly appreciate the importance of the lines, which 
now place her within a day's ride of Boston, and which no 
five months' frost can fetter, or place under a winter's em- 
bargo. 

At noon, the Delegation met the Mayor and Corporation at 
their rooms. Mr. Brinley, in behalf of the Municipal authori- 
ties of Boston, explained the objects of the mission, and ex- 
tended a formal invitation to the Corporation of Montreal, to 
visit Boston the week of the Railroad Jubilee. The Mayor 
replied, in behalf of his associates, and accepted the invita- 
tion. The Delegation were gratified to find a native of Bos- 
ton a member of the Montreal Board of Aldermen. This 
gentleman resided in Boston when the present City Hall was 
erected, and worked upon the building at his trade of stone 
mason. He went to Canada during the last war, as a soldier, 
under Gen. Dearborn, and after the peace of 1815, settled in 
Canada, where, by his enterprise and industry he has secured 
a competence. He assured the Committee that he would 
visit Boston and call upon them, in the building which he 
worked upon, and which they worked in. A member of the 
Corporation is a native of Vermont, and is a fine representa- 
tive of those sterling qualities which have always distin- 
guished the sons of the Green Mountain State. 

At the interview at the Corporation's rooms, the Commit- 
tee accepted an invitation to a visit to the " Mountain," a 
famous place of resort in the suburbs of the city. At the 
hour appointed, the Mayor and Corporation called at the 
hotel, and took their guests, in carriages. In each vehicle, 
but one member of the Committee was permitted to ride. It 
was also arranged that all political parties should be repre- 
sented in each carriage. This Avas the case in all the cities 
visited. The object was, that no erroneous impression should 
be made upon the minds of the strangers. Hence, Tories 
and Radicals, Ministerialists and Opposition, French Cana- 
dians and Englishmen, were sure that their political senti- 
ments would be represented to each visitor. 



27 

The ride round the mountain is through a fine country. 
North of the city, elegant and taseful residences occupy the 
land. After reaching the northern slope of the mountain, a 
magnificent panorama meets the eye. For miles and miles, 
the country is highly cultivated, and the scenery is superb. 
The valley of the Ottawa river can be distinguished for a 
great distance. To the South, the St. Lawrence is seen, 
with the level country, Laprairie, upon the opposite shore, 
with the range of mountains in New York and Vermont in 
the southern and eastern directions. 

. Monklands is the name given to the mansion house at the 
Mountain, where Lord Elgin lived during his residence in 
Montreal. It is finely situated, is surrounded by venerable 
woods, and its internal arrangements are upon a scale suita- 
ble for the residence of any person, however distinguished. 
After visiting the spacious apartments and extensive grounds, 
the company were ushered into an elegant hall, where a din- 
ner was provided, in a style worthy the character of the city 
by whose authorities it was given. 

At this dinner eloquent speeches were made, and appropri- 
ate sentiments given. The place, occasion, past history, and 
present relations of the respective nations and races of men, 
who were thus assembled as friends and neighbors, aftbrded 
themes for eloquence, and were improved in a manner which 
evinced that when the feelings are deeply moved, and upon 
great occasions, all men who have the attainment, as Jeffer- 
son expresses it, " of thinking upon their legs," can be inter- 
esting and eloquent. 

It now appears that the social intercourse which results 
from our railways, and the intimacies and business connec- 
tions established and increased thereby, will exert a very 
potent influence upon the people, in all countries where they 
are established. It was before the establishment of the 
modern means of communication that Cowper penned his 
familiar lines : 

" Lands intersected by a narrow fritli 
Abhor each other. Mountains interposed 
Make enemies of nations wlio had else, 
Like kindred drops, been mingled into one." 



28 

The writer occupied a seat between a French Cathohc and 
a Jew. The table was a sort of " world's convention," in 
which all civilized nations were represented. Two of the 
speeches were made in the French language, as their authors 
could not understand English well enough to speak it in 
public. 



LETTER, No. VI. 

On Tuesday, after passing the morning in receiving visitors 
from the various commercial, professional, and official ranks 
of society, the delegation, in company with the Mayor 
of Montreal, and a number of his associates in office, 
visited several places of note in the city. The Catholic 
Cathedral was first examined, and the long journey to its 
tower performed. The top of the tower is 220 feet above 
the level of the street. A magnificent view of the city and 
its suburbs is obtained at that great elevation, and although 
the ascent is a laborious one, the visitor is amply repaid for 
his fatigue, by the extent, variety, and beauty of the panora- 
ma which meets his vision. ' 

Through the agency of our municipal guides, the party 
visited three of the principal nunneries in the city. The first 
convent visited was devoted to the education of young girls. 
It has been established upwards of 200 years. The buildings 
are very extensive. They are rather antique in their appear- 
ance. The school desks and furniture are full a century be- 
hind the times. The rooms have low ceilings : the walls 
are ornamented with lithographs of Saints, and scriptural en- 
gravings. They are as neat as the apartments of the Shak- 
ers. There are several chapels connected with the building, 
in most of them nuns w ere noticed at their devotions. The 



5ig 

garden of the convent was cultivated with taste, and wag 
filled with beautiful flowers, which appeared in strange con- 
trast with the internal gloominess, by which they were en- 
tirely surrounded. The lady superior was very attentive and 
polite ; specimens of rich embroidery were produced, of such 
exquisite workmanship, that it would almost seem an abuse 
of eyesight to attempt to copy their fine and delicate shadings. 

The next Convent visited was occupied by Sisters of 
another order. This structure is appropriated for the use of 
the indigent sick ; it is, in fact, a pauper hospital. It is divi- 
ded into wards, and is a very extensive establishment The 
ceiling is low, and the ventilation is poor. Each bed is en- 
tirely surrounded with curtains. From a survey of the beds 
and furniture in the apartments, it would seem doubtful if 
any modern improvement had been introduced during the 
present century. 

In all the essential requisites of a hospital, this famous in- 
stitution cannot in any proper sense be compared with the 
Deer Island Hospital, which is so far before it that no com- 
parison can be instituted. 

This comparison is not made in any spirit of fault finding, 
but simply to assure the people of Boston, that with all the 
complaints made by the Irish, who patronize our pauper 
establishments, the public charitable institutions of our own 
city, are really far before those provided by the wealthy 
Catholics of Canada for their poor. Our State provides better 
accommodations for the destitute, than the richly endowed, 
and powerful Catholic Church in Canada. 

The matrons were very communicative, and appeared to 
be devotedly attached to their charitable work. They were 
not remarkable for their personal attractions, as three of them 
Would not require the aid of dress, to make themselves appro- 
priate representatives of three peculiar female personages re- 
quired to perform Shakspeare's tragedy of Macbeth. 

The Convent of the Gray Sisters was next visited. This 
institution serves as an asylum for the aged and infirm, and 
also for foundlings. It is similar to a poor house in New 
England- In each of the rooms visited, which are devoted to 



30 

the aged, a nun was reading the Scriptures aloud, in Frenchj 
to a group of listeners. No notice was taken of the presence 
of visitors, but the reading was continued, and the interest 
and attention did not seem to suffer by the strangers present. 
One old veteran stated his age to be 95 years, and anothei:' 
gave his age at 87 years. The rooms were very neat and 
comfortable. The apartments devoted to foundlings were 
Well filled with healthy looking children. The number in 
the building was reported to be 463. The total number now 
under the care of the Gray Sisters is upwards of 4,000. It 
was stated that eight infants had been placed in the gate 
within the past week. 

The Catholic religious institutions in Montreal are richly 
endowed. Many of the finest squares of land in the centre 
of the city are owned by the church and the convents. In a 
sanitary point of view, the large number of open squares 
throughout the city is most fortunate. But from the New 
England point of view, the rich possessions, the costly struct- 
ures, the fine gardens, and the enormous expenditure required 
to sustaki the pomp and glory of Romanism, naturally excite 
the queries, whether the people are educated ? Whether the 
population are enterprising ? Whether the abuses of the old 
world do not exist in the new, where the institutions are 
copied after those of Europe ? And also, whether the ener- 
gies of the masses are paralyzed, where authority is arrayed 
against thought, and tradition is worshipped instead of the 
spirit of progress and improvement. 

The above train of thought was suggested, as the first 
place visited after emerging from the walls of a convent was 
a telegraph office. 

The Committee visited the rooms of the Bank of Montreal 
and were received with great attention by Hon.J*eter McGill 
President of the institution. This gentleman was the first 
Mayor of the City, and now occupies a commanding position 
as the head of the largest moneyed institution in the British 
Provinces. The delegation found Mr. McGill one of the most 
intelligent persons they met in their travels. 



31 

The streets of Montreal are about the same width of those 
in Boston. The city has rather a sombre air, and the ruins 
of numerous conflagrations in different parts of the town pre- 
sent a gloomy aspect. It would seem that Montreal has been 
quite a loser by the loss of Parliament, and the occurrences 
which attended the removal of the seat of government to 
Toronto. 

The public buildings of Montreal are numerous and exten- 
sive. The Hospital is a very imposing edifice which over- 
looks the city. The Corporation have just erected a market 
house : the halls in the second story are to be devoted to 
municipal offices. A large building has been commenced the 
present year, which will be occupied by the various courts. 
The Protestant church edifices are many of them elegant 
structures. The police and other municipal regulations are 
admirably arranged. During a stay of four days in Montreal 
and attending two large public gatherings, no person was 
seen intoxicated, neither was there any breach of the peace 
observed. The newspapers reported a murder, and the May- 
or's time was occupied in holding court, to attend to the same 
class of cases which occupy the Police Court in Boston. But 
the whole appearance of the population was peaceable and 
correct. 

The Mercantile Library Association have fine rooms, and a 
judicious selection of newspapers from the States. The At- 
las was on file each day after its publication. 

The people of Montreal appear to be very hospitable, and 
attentive to those who visit them. They seem to unite the 
social virtues of the English and French nations. A short 
acquaintance will only be required to dispel many of the mis- 
taken notions the people of the Provinces and of the States 
now entertaij:! of each other. It is hoped that no undue na- 
tional vanity suggests the thought, that the intimacy about 
to be commenced will be of immense value to the people of 
the Provinces ; that they now stand in great need of a prac- 
tical application of the Saxon element of energy, and that by 
an infusion of enterprise and public spirit into the body poli- 
tic, the Canadas will rapidly increase in wealth, importance 



32 

and population. By visiting New England, and personally 
witnessing the great results which have been attained here 
within the past thirty years, the fpeople^of Canada will have 
evidence which cannot be mistaken, that by a judicious ap- 
plication of capital, and a liberal policy, or in a word, by fol- 
lowing the example of the people of Massachusetts, a few 
years only will be required, to give such an impetus to their 
trade, manufactures, and agriculture, that those now upon 
the stage will see their cities and towns contain double their 
present population, and their agricultural districts become the 
abode of a frugal, wealthy and prosperous community. 

On the evening of Tuesday, the 19th of August, the Com- 
mittee took the fine steamer "Q,uebec," for a trip to the city 
of Quebec. The passengers made a motley collection. The 
forward deck was covered with crates and boxes of vegeta- 
bles, accompanied by their owners. The deck load was in- 
tended for the markets of the towns down the St. Lawrence, 
where the season is not so forward as it is in the vicinity of 
Montreal. Before the steamer arrived at Q,uebec, our en- 
terprising market men and women, with their wares, were 
missing, as they had been left at the landing places where 
the boat had stopped. 

Some twenty Jesuits were on board the steamer, dressed 
in the peculiar costume of their order. They were of all 
ages, from fifteen to fifty years old. The most juvenile 
members of the party looked oddly enough, with their close- 
bodied garments, long robes, and three cornered hats on. 
They all appeared more demure and sad than serious or re- 
flective. At the table their activity and zeal was so manifest 
that it attracted the attention of the passengers generally. 

After a passage of eleven hours, we arrived at Q,uebec. 
The next article will be devoted to that ancient city. 



33 



LETTER, No. VII. 

Quebec is one of the oldest cities in North America. Its 
name is suggestive of historical associations to the people of 
France, England, and the United States. From the water, 
the city presents a peculiar aspect. The walls of the cita- 
del of Cape Diamond, which rise nearly three hundred and 
fifty feet above the level of the river, appear to tower over 
the lower town, so steep and lofty, that the inhabitants 
seem to dwell beneath an avalanche, which will one day 
bury them beneath a vast mass of rocks and earth. 

From the citadel itself, the immense warehouses below, 
and ships of 1200 tons afloat in the St. Lawrence — rows of 
houses along the docks, and the quays, which are crowded 
with articles of merchandise, all seem insignificant and small, 
from that great height. 

The streets of Quebec are most of them narrow, and nearly 
all of them are steep. Every object which meets the eye of 
the visitor, reminds him that he is in a city which is un- 
like any other place in North America. Our party arrived 
early in the morning ; and as the day was pleasant, we had 
a good opportunity of seeing the city, before the inhabitants 
were in the streets. The entrance to the inner city, through 
a gate, the architecture of the public and private buildings, 
the strange language which fell upon the ear, the appearance 
of the streets, and all things which met the eye, reminded 
one of the old world. 

After taking rooms at Russell's Albion Hotel, and warm- 
ing ourselves before a bituminous coal fire — for the morning 
was cold — we went out for a walk before breakfast. The 
milk carts, drawn by dogs, and driven by women as well as 
by men, were an odd sight. To see a female drive a dog, 
harnessed to a cart, along the street, give the word for him 
to stop, then to fasten him by the reins to a lamp post, while 
the milk was served at the door in the rear part of the dwel- 
ling houses in the vicinity, was a novel spectacle. 



34 

Seeing persons enter the Catholic Cathedral our party, 
entered the doors, and looked at its magnificent decorations. 
The interior finish was mostly of white and gold. The 
building had a venerable aspect. Its altar was superbly 
ornamented. There were several hundred worshippers as- 
sembled. Public services were going on in three different 
parts of the edifice, yet the church is so extensive that no 
inconvenience seemed to be experienced, except when the 
sharp and searching tones of the bells used in the service, 
were heard throughout the building. 

Workmen are now busy in constructing a new wing for 
the Parliament House. Extensive preparations will be made 
at Quebec, for the reception and accommodation of the 
officers of the Government at the next session of Parliament, 
which will be convened in that city. 

The Committee were waited upon by Dr. Sewell, the 
acting Mayor, and the objects of the mission were stated. 
A meeting of the corporation was arranged, and the business 
connected with the visit was transacted. But a short time 
among the citizens of Quebec was required to enable us to 
perceive that society was most polished and refined, and that 
the people were distinguished for their urbanity, hospitality, 
and courteousness. 

At noon our Committee received an official call from the 
Municipal authorities of the city. The meeting was a very 
pleasant one, and the Committee regretted that their limited 
stay would forbid their acceptance of the numerous invita- 
tions which were given them to remain, and partake of the 
hospitalities of the city and its citizens. The corporation 
have accepted the invitation of the city of Boston, and will 
be well represented here next week. 

The Quebec authorities took the Committee in carriages 
for the purpose of visiting the Citadel, Wolfe's Monument, 
the Plains of Abraham, and other objects of interest. On our 
way to the Citadel we' had an opportunity of witnessing part 
of the ceremony of " Guard Mounting." The review had 
just terminated, and as the guards broke off under their re- 
spective commanders, and marched in various directions, to 



35 

the posts assigned them, they presented quite an animated 
and brilliant spectacle. 

After passing through a long circuitous passage, with high 
walls upon each side, and strongly fortified iron gates at each 
turn, we soon reached the heights of Cape Diamond, and 
were within one of the strongest fortresses in the world. 
The Citadel of Q,uebec was ever a place of immense strength, 
and when it finally fell into the hands of the English, in 
1759, after a seige of two months, it was by capitulation, 
and had received no injury. 

Since the war of 1812, however, the Citadel has been en- 
tirely re-constructed, upon the most approved principles of 
modern military science. An officer of the army informed 
us, that for several years, and at the present time, there were 
provisions, and military stores of every description, sufficient 
to withstand a seige of 18 months. The supplies were for 
100,000 persons. It is now undergoing alterations, in order 
to remedy an important error of a former engineer, for which 
he was recalled to England. 

The view from the top of the Citadel is one of great extent 
and beauty ; upon every side, points of historical interest are 
pointed out. In this particular it greatly resembles the top 
of Bunker Hill Monument, though the view is far more ex- 
tensive, as the spot is some 130 feet higher than the top of 
the monument. 

The plains, or rather Heights of Abraham were visited, 
and by the aid of our communicative and intelligent guides, 
a correct idea could be formed of the famous battle between 
the English and French armies upon the spot, nearly a cen- 
tury ago. The monument erected by the officers of the 
British army, to the memory of General Wolfe, is a prominent 
object of interest in the vicinity of the heights. 

In tlie afternoon our party, by invitation of the authorities, 
visited the celebrated Falls of Montmorenci. The ride to 
the Falls is through a thickly settled agricultural district. 
Most of the houses have a solid and venerable appearance. 
The people were many of them out of doors ; the children 
were thick in numbers and personal appearance ; the quan- 



36 

tity of little ones along the road soliciting pennies, reminded 
one of Washington Irving's allusion to " urchins and toad- 
stools." The land about Q,uebec is divided into very small 
lots. Ten acres would be regarded as a large field. Women 
were noticed in the fields at work upon the growing crops, or 
engaged in raking hay. In a ride of nine miles a hundred 
females were seen at work in the fields. The females and 
children of Canada wear a summer hat of straw, with a rim 
of wider dimensions than the most ultra bloomer style in New 
England. 

But one new building was in sight from the road, the en- 
tire distance of our ride. That one was an extensive and 
elegant Catholic church, which appeared in strange contrast 
with the buildings in its vicinity. About six miles from the 
city a cross is erected at the side of the road, in honor of the 
cause of temperance. It was a present to the people of the 
parish, from the Bishop of Paris. All parties united in praise 
of the zeal and devotion of the Catholic clergy of Lower 
Canada to the cause of temperance. Within the past five 
years great good has resulted from their labors, and the whole 
social condition of the masses of the population is said to 
have been changed by the instrumentality of the pledge. 

The Falls of Montmorenci are an object of peculiar inter- 
est. No language can convey to the mind of a person who 
has not witnessed their varied beauties, an idea of their mag- 
nificence. To be appreciated and understood they must be 
studied, A whole day would be a short time to devote to 
an exploration of their rare and exquisite wonders. 

Upon our return we visited the residence of Francis Xavier 
Paradis, Esq., City Councillor. This gentleman gave a most 
bountiful and splendid exhibition of hospitality, upon so ex- 
tensive a scale, that most of the party thought they Avere in 
a large French hotel, instead of being at a private residence. 

The Committee were informed at Quebec, that the Corpo- 
ration were engaged in the construction of works for the 
introduction of a supply of water into that city. They were 
gratified to learn that the works were under the superinten- 
dence of a Boston engineer — George Baldwin, Esq., brother 



37 

of James F. Baldwin, Esq., one of the Water Commissioners 
for the construction of the Cochituate Water Works. 

The general appearance of Quebec, and the suburbs there- 
of, plainly indicate that the people cling with tenacity to 
ancient manners and customs. They have the cheerful, 
social characteristics of the French people. But in a new and 
progressive world, they present the rare spectacle of an old 
and stationary society, which has remained unaffected by the 
great changes which have taken place upon other portions 
of North America. In an evil hour for the prosperity of 
Lower Canada, the English government, to meet a tempo- 
rary exigency, established the English criminal and the 
French civil code. By the operation of the latter for a series 
of years, the province did not feel the influence of American 
Republican Liberty. The Feudal institution of France, 
before the Revolution of 1793, were not adapted to the 
social and physical condition of the people of a new world. 
Hence they remain at the present time, with all the peculi- 
arities of French Provinces under the old regime. 



LETTER, No. VIII. 

On Wednesday, August 20th, at 5 P. M., the Committee 
took the steamer at Quebec, for Montreal, where they ar- 
rived early on Thursday morning. They were waited upon 
at their hotel^by members of the City Government, merchants, 
officers of the army, and professional gentlemen. The morn- 
ing was devoted to the reception of these gentlemen, and in 
finishing the correspondence connected with their mission in 
Canada. 

Col. Home, accompanied by several officers of the twen- 
tieth Regiment, waited upon the Committee, with an urgent 



38 

solicitation to remain and dine with the military gentlemen 
stationed at this place. This compliment was reluctantly de- 
clined, but an arrangement was made to visit the officers at 
their quarters, after the review, to partake of a collation. 

At eleven o'clock, the deputation, accompanied by the 
Mayor and several officers of the Corporation, visited Camp 
de Mars, for the purpose of witnessing a review, which had 
been ordered in honor of their presence in the city. The 
troops were in a line at the hour appointed. A detachment 
of the Royal Artillery was also upon the parade ground. Af- 
ter a few movements of the troops, Lieut. General Rowan, 
commander of the forces in British North America, arrived on 
the ground, accompanied by his staff. This gentleman was 
very attentive to the Committee, and they are indebted to 
him for numerous favors. In personal appearance he resem- 
bles a late commander of the Independent Cadets, whose re- 
signation as a member of the Massachusetts Senate from Suf- 
folk County, last winter, was regretted by all parties. Gen. 
Rowan was in the battle of Waterloo, and upon the parade 
ground wore three medals which he had received for his 
bravery. The review was very splendid. It was witnessed 
by a large concourse of people, who did not require either 
guards or police to keep them off the parade ground. In the 
three reviews witnessed in Canada, the perfection to which 
military tactics are carried was strikingly manifested. The 
soldiers are enlisted for a number of years, and are drilled 
four hours each day throughout the year. Each man appear- 
ed to be throughly acquainted with the duties required of 
him, and in the most intricate military movements, a whole 
regiment would move with the accuracy and precision of a 
complicated piece of mechanism. The soldier was perfect, 
whatever the man might be. 

After the parade of the infantry, the detachment of artillery 
were reviewed, and went through about the same drill as was 
given by Sherman's Company of Flying Artillery, on Boston 
Common, last summer. 

The horses attached to the artillery were very beautiful, 
and entirely under the control of their riders. The harnesses 



39 

and equipments were very highly finished, and even elegant. 
In show and ornament, the Royal Artillery presented more 
pleasing attractions than Sherman's Battery ; but in rapidity 
of movement, dexterity in management of the pieces, and all 
which partakes of the useful and practical in service, Sher- 
man's Battery far eclipsed this famous English force. The 
efficiency of Sherman's Flying Artillery in actual service, 
where promptness and celerity are of so much importance, 
would greatly exceed the best mancEuvres of this celebrated 
branch of the British service. The difference between the 
drill of the two companies justifies the above comparison. 

During the review, the colors were trooped in a manner at 
once striking and imposing. The two colors were received 
at the left of the line, by the company which occupied the 
extreme right. The colors of the regiment were superbly em- 
broidered and ornamented. The Q,ueen's colors were also very 
elaborately finished. After receiving the colors, the company 
marched in the rear of the line, while the colors, accompanied 
by the band, were carried in front. The band numbered 
fifty-four pieces, and as they marched in front of the line, 
playing " God save the Queen," the effect was very striking. 
Several of the field officers were veterans in the service, who 
had won distinction and received high military honors, be- 
fore a majority of the Boston delegation were born. 

After the troops were dismissed, the delegation, by invita- 
tion of the General, visited the island opposite Montreal, ac- 
companied by one of his staff, and the Montreal authorities. 
The immense military storehouses were explored. The ex- 
tent and variety of the articles contained within them, would 
surprise those not familiar with the details of military expen- 
diture. At the risk of encountering incredulity, only one 
fact will be stated. Upon reaching the powder magazine, 
our party were supplied with moccasins for the purpose oi 
passing through the magazine. Some of the party declined 
to adopt the rule, which requires this precaution on account 
of the nails in the boot heels. Our military guide smiled at 
the declination, and stated that in case of accident, the near- 
est point of safety would be several miles distant. The 



40 

powder was arranged in casks, and stacked in immense piles 
throughout the entire extent of the building. An examina- 
tion of the books of the keeper, prompted by Yankee curi- 
osity, revealed the fact that there were upwards of jive mil- 
lion pounds of powder stored within the walls. 

Immediately upon their return to the city, the delegation 
visited the quarters of the officers of the 20th regiment, where 
a most superb and recherche lunch was served. The display 
of porcelain and rich silver ware was very splendid. Nothing 
could exceed the brilliancy of this entertainment. 

Upon their return to the hotel, the Committee found a 
large number of gentlemen waiting to escort them to the 
boat, on board of which they were to embark for home. 
When the boat left the quay, three hearty cheers were given 
for Boston and the delegation. After an hour's sail across 
the river, the boat arrived at La Prairie, where the cars were 
taken for St. Johns. The party slept on board the steamer. 
At six in the morning the steamer started for Burlington, 
the sail upon the river and Lake Champlain was very fine. 
The route of the steamer was through a most beautiful re- 
gion, the scenery of which is varied and picturesque. The 
wind was very high, so that the boat did not make her trip 
in the usual time. The delegation were accompanied from 
Montreal by Mr, H. D. Doane, agent of the Rutland and 
Burlington Railroad. At Burlington they met Judge Follett, 
President of the road, who accompanied them to Bellows 
Falls, and by his courteous attentions, the ride was made in 
a most agreeable manner. The scenery along this route is 
very splendid indeed. The train seems to pass through 
the mountains as if by magic — a new scene meets the eye 
each moment, and a person once passing over this road with 
his eyes open, will ever retain a pleasing remembrance of the 
extraordinary beauty of the Green Hills. At Bellows Falls, 
Mr. John S. Dunlap, the newly appointed Superintendent of 
the Rutland Road, joined the party, and accompanied them 
to Boston. Although the train was an hour late, owing to 
the detention of the steamer by the wind, it arrived at 
Keene at the usual hour. Between Bellows Falls and Keene, 



41 

eight miles were travelled in ten minutes. The average 
speed during the day, over the Burlington and Rutland, 
Cheshire, Yerraont and Massachusetts, and Fitchburg Roads, 
was thirty miles an hour, including stops. The officers of 
these roads were very polite and attentive to the Committee. 

During their absence from Boston, the Committee travelled 
upwards of eighteen hundred miles, and had interviews with 
many hundred persons, in various walks of life. They were 
received with marks of attention and hospitality too numer- 
ous to record. They trust the business and social relations 
of the city they represented, will long feel the beneficent re- 
sults of their labors, and that their mission to Canada will be 
a marked era in the commercial history and prosperity of 
Boston. 

In a journey of so many miles, and meeting with gentle- 
men, who entertain views upon most subjects of popular in- 
terest, so widely dissimilar to those held by the people of 
New England, many amusing incidents took place. It was 
interesting to note the repetition of the old arguments in 
favor of monarchical governments, creeds, and blind devotion 
to the past. The sound political maxim that " Freedom is 
the only certain cure for the evils of Freedom," does not ap- 
pear to be recognised by those who look with distrust upon 
the principles of Republicanism. 

But one incident will be given, to illustrate the ignorance 
which prevails upon religious matters in Boston by the culti- 
vated people of Canada. In a conversation with a Baptist 
clergymail who was a most agreeable companion, the fact 
was stated, that a number of the Boston Committee were 
Unitarians. He remarked that as the Unitarians never cele- 
brated the sacrament they were able to avoid the question of 
open and close communion, which was somewhat trouble- 
some to the Baptists. Upon being informed respecting his 
great error in relation to the customs of Liberal Christians, he 
stated, that when in Boston some years ago, he was greatly 
surprised to find Doctors S. and N., Baptist clergymen of this 
city, regarded Dr. Channing as a Christian ! 



42 

Two or three points of general interest will be briefly ad- 
verted to, before closing this series of articles. In their 
interconrse with the Canadian authorities, the Bostonians 
were constantly reminded of their distinguished fellow citi- 
zens, who have represented the United States at the Court of 
St. James. The impressions made upon English officials by 
Messrs. Everett, Bancroft and Lawrence, while they have 
reflected credit upon the country they represented, have 
also produced an effect in the highest degree favorable to 
Boston. 

One of the most prominent topics of discourse among all 
classes, was the remarkable judicial trial which took place in 
this city last year. The manner of conducting the trial^ its 
painful termination, and all the incidents connected there- 
with were familiarly known. A thousand questions were 
answered respecting the venerable Chief Justice, the eloquent 
and sagacious attorney for the government, and the devoted 
clergyman, whose connection with the trial, has given them 
a world-wide reputation. The dark history of that melan- 
choly event has given our beloved Commonwealth a name 
and character abroad, which will be as enduring as any other 
historical event with which she is identified. 

The enterprise, shrewdness, and high mercantile character of 
the people of New England has made a deep impression upon 
the inhabitants of the Canadas. The merchants who are 
acquainted in different sections of the United States, evinced 
in their conversation, a keen appreciation of the sterling 
qualities of manliness and uprightness which are the crown- 
ing excellencies of the New England character. 

As citizens of the United States, the Committee had just 
reason to be proud of the country and its republican institu- 
tions. The silent influence of example, and the potent argu- 
ments presented in the rapid prosperity and advancement of 
our country, are exerting a powerful effect upon the public 
mind in Canada, which all the vain pomp and splendor of 
provincial authority cannot arrest. The feeling in favor of 
the United States and its popular institutions is confined to 
no class. This sentiment is evidently upon the increase, 



43 

and men now openly advocate and proclaim political opinions 
which meet with a response from the populace, which would 
formerly have been regarded as treasonable. Annexationists 
were met with at every point, respectable in numbers and 
character, whose admiration of the United States was un- 
bounded and undisguised. 

Could those who have recently defamed the people of 
Massachusetts, sneered at her principles and contemned her 
ancient Puritan characteristics, have listened to the eulogiums 
pronounced upon her by the eminent jurists, statesmen and 
merchants of the Provinces, they would have learned that a 
State, like an individual, has amoral influence commensurate 
with its devotion to those lofty virtues and principles, which 
good men everywhere venerate and commend. Let but the 
people of Massachusetts and New England emulate the noble 
qualities and elevated christian ideas of those who have gone 
before them, and laid deep and strong the foundations of 
communities where liberty is regulated by law, where educa- 
tion is the priceless heritage of all, where conscience is un- 
fettered by legal enactment, and true republican freedom is 
enjoyed without limit ; keep resolutely and faithfully on 
their course, and they are sure to receive the respect, con- 
fidence and admiration of all whose good opinion is worth 
possessing. 

Let them be true to their ancestry, their history and 
themselves, and their influence will increase with the ad- 
vancing civilization of mankind. 



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